How to grow a rose from a cutting: detailed instructions

Cuttings are an artificial method of vegetative propagation of rose bushes, which is suitable even for beginner flower growers. At the stages of processing the separated part of the stem and its rooting, you need to show a little patience. After that, it remains only to plant a seedling on the site and expect the fruits of their labor.

Roses that have a red or pink color take root best.

Pros of growing new rose bushes from cuttings:

100% counterfeit protection - a visual inspection of an adult plant allows you to evaluate the future result in advance.
The absence of wild shoots - the culture does not degenerate into a wild rose, which greatly facilitates its care.
Minimum costs - you can get a large amount of planting material from one parent, which eliminates the need to purchase expensive seedlings.
A high percentage of positive results - only 15–20% of stems with a well-developed root subsequently do not take root in open ground.
The durability of the rose garden - own-rooted, especially non-covering shrubs, can live for several decades.
Variety of options - most roses lend themselves well to cuttings, including climbing, miniature, ground cover, hybrid-polyanthus, polyanthus and individual tea-hybrid species.

Cuttings of the rose variety you like can be easily brought with you from a trip, because they tolerate long journeys well. To do this, they need to be properly prepared: stick the sharp end into raw potatoes, wrap in paper and cover with a layer of polyethylene with holes. This design can be stored for up to 1 month at a temperature of +2–4 °C.

Cons of growing new rose bushes from cuttings:

The impossibility of predicting the results when propagating vegetatively grafted (hybrid) varieties. Basically, the qualities of only the plant from which the root system was developed are inherited.
Difficulties with growing some species. Worst of all, remontant, yellow and wrinkled park roses lend themselves to breeding in this way.

Also, a relative disadvantage can be called the weak frost resistance of roses propagated by cuttings, but the peculiarity of such plants is that when the surface part is frozen, it is able to self-repair from dormant underground buds (which does not happen, for example, in grafted flowers).

Selection of starting material for germination

In order to avoid disappointment and not waste time on deliberately failed options, you need to make sure in advance that the roses you like are suitable for obtaining a high-quality cutting.

Tips for choosing suitable rose bushes for cuttings:

Do not cut shoots from too young flexible or, conversely, very old lignified plants.
Refuse to propagate newly introduced imported species.
Give preference to domestic varieties or flowers that have undergone long-term acclimatization.
Choose only healthy and strong medium sized shrubs with no outward signs of wilting, damage and/or disease (specks, mold, etc.).

It is necessary to prepare the bush for propagation by cuttings in advance by applying top dressing under it.

An important indicator of readiness for reproduction is the presence of easily broken thorns - this indicates a sufficient maturity of the parent rose.

Harvesting cuttings: when and how to cut the shoots correctly

If you wish, you can try to grow a rose from a cutting, even from unpresentable branches. For example, of those that broke off under the weight of snow or remained after curly cutting of a bush. However, to obtain the most favorable results, it is recommended to follow certain rules:

Season. Experienced growers are advised to cut the shoots from the formation of buds to the end of flowering, that is, from the beginning of summer to mid-autumn. By this time, the wood will have accumulated enough nutrients, but in general, you can start rooting from early spring.
maturity stage. A suitable cutting is considered to be a small straight segment of an adult semi-lignified (this year) green stem with 2-5 fully formed axillary buds.
Escape size. The length should be from 15 to 30 cm, thickness - from 5 to 10 mm.
Work tool. A special garden pruner and a household knife with a very sharp blade are also suitable (the main thing is to make sure that it accurately separates the trunk, and does not flatten or “shaggy” it). It is desirable to disinfect the instrument with alcohol or boiling water.
Cut location. For cuttings, the middle or lower part of the stem is used (the top takes root very poorly). The upper cut is made in a straight line between the kidneys 2-6 mm above one of them, and the lower one is obliquely, at an angle of 45 ° directly below the last kidney.
Material processing. At the base of the finished cuttings, you need to completely remove the thorns and leaves, and reduce their number by half from above.

Cuttings are best done during the period when buds are stained in uterine specimens.

Important! If the branches, when probed, turn out to be insufficiently elastic or even sluggish (which may be evidence of a disease), then they cannot be used for reproduction: at best, they simply will not take root, and at worst, they will infect healthy neighbors.

You can complete the preparation of the stem by dipping the cut points in a weak (light pink) solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection. To minimize moisture loss, seal the upper end with wax or paraffin, and place the lower end in a stimulating solution.

Application of growth activator

For more stable rooting of rose cuttings, they are soaked for 10–24 hours in a weakly concentrated solution of any growth stimulator (regulator), which can be both professional and homemade.

Table: Means to enhance root formation.

Preparation of the solution at home:

Willow infusion. Place a few willow twigs in ordinary clean water and wait until they take root. After that, the nutrient fluid can be drained.
Honey water. Dissolve 1 tsp. honey in 0.5 liters of warm boiled water.
Yeast extract. Dilute raw baker's yeast in clean warm water at the rate of 100 g per 1 liter, while the effect can be enhanced by adding 1 tsp. Sahara.
Juice (gel) aloe. Grind the required amount of aloe leaves in a blender and strain the resulting slurry through several layers of gauze to separate the concentrated juice.

The use of growth activators contributes to the formation of a more powerful rose root system

Advice. In pure gel from aloe leaves, the stalk can be left for 10–12 hours, after which it is advisable to dilute the juice with water (1: 9) and leave it in this form for another 10–12 hours or for the entire period of development of the root system (with the water method of grafting ).

The choice of a growth activator depends on the capabilities and desires of the grower, but it is worth noting that the action of chemicals is more targeted than that of its natural counterparts. Already on the 12-15th day of using these drugs, the cuttings have their own root system (against the standard 30 days). It is also necessary to remember that when working with chemicals it is very important to observe the permissible concentration indicated on the packaging and the precautions.

Germination methods

Rooting of cut stems can be done in different ways, among which there are especially popular ones:

in water;
in the newspaper;
in potatoes;
in a pot.

Each method has its own individual characteristics, considering in detail which you can choose the most suitable option for yourself.

Instructions for germinating rose cuttings in water:

Important! Many flower growers argue that it is impossible to completely change the water, but you can only “refresh” the main volume by adding the evaporated liquid.

This is a very simple and convenient method of cuttings, but it has one significant drawback. Due to the lack of oxygen, the roots grown in water are particularly fragile. They are thinner and more transparent than soil counterparts, so they are easily damaged during transplantation.

Rose cuttings in newspaper leaves

Instructions for germinating rose cuttings in the newspaper:

Moisten newspaper sheets so that they become absolutely soft and can be wrung out like a rag.
Fold the cuttings in bunches of several pieces and wrap them in paper according to the envelope principle, leaving no free ends of the branches outside.
Place the finished bundles in a plastic bag and leave them in a dark place at a temperature of +18–25 °C.
Periodically unpack the bag and moisten the newspaper with a spray bottle.
When rot appears on one of the cuttings, it must be removed and the healthy stems carefully washed, and then a new bundle should be formed for them.
When the roots get stronger and reach 5 cm in length, the plant can be transplanted into the ground.

The advantage of the Burrito method is the ability to grow difficult-to-root varieties of roses.

This method of obtaining roots is called Burrito for its similarity in appearance to the Mexican dish of the same name.

Growing roses in potato tubers

Instructions for germinating rose cuttings in potatoes:

Reference. Potato can be conditionally called a natural “growth stimulant”, because it creates almost ideal conditions for the development of pink cuttings: it maintains optimal humidity and supplies useful microelements.

Propagation of roses by cuttings in a pot (soil)

Instructions for germinating rose cuttings in the ground:

Planting stems directly into the ground is the most traditional cutting method. Its main advantage is the preparedness of the root system for a painless transplant to a permanent place of growth.

Readiness for landing in open ground

The period of readiness of pink cuttings for planting in an open garden plot depends on the stage of its development and the degree of soil warming. It also takes into account the type of formation of the root system:

Open (in plants in newspapers, bags, water, etc.). The size of the roots is from 5 to 7 cm, the optimal time is from mid-April.
Closed (for seedlings in pots, substrates, biodegradable containers, etc.). New leaves from 2 to 6 pieces, the optimal time is the first decade of May.

Important! In the presence of young green leaves, the time of planting in open ground is selected especially carefully: it is necessary to exclude any possibility of night frosts.

The spring period is the most favorable time for planting. It is advisable to actively care for young cuttings for another 1-2 months, so that it is possible to correct deviations in development. However, in the southern regions, landing can be made in the fall.

In order for the seedlings to grow well and bloom regularly in the future, care must be taken to protect them from the cold and possible frosts.

It is necessary to prepare the soil for planting in advance so that it has time to settle by the time of planting.

The most widely used 3 methods of insulation:

Sprinkling and watering.
Prevents cracking of the trunk, because it forms an ice “shell” on it, increasing the thermal conductivity and heat capacity of the earth. The sprinkling procedure must be repeated every half hour.
It can be quite difficult to organize multiple spraying of leaves and stems with water for several hours at night by hand. Therefore, an automatic irrigation system is more suitable for this method.
A positive effect is provided not only by the formed ice shell, but also by the heat released: when 1 gram of water freezes, 80 calories of energy are produced, which literally warms the seedlings.
Smoke (fumigation). It has the effect of direct heating and reduces the radiation of heat from the soil through an artificial smoke cloud. Instructions for smoke (fumigation) of the site:
1. Assemble a “three-layer cake” (height - 1 m, width - 1.5 m) from materials that can smolder with low combustion:
  1 layer - firewood and brushwood;
  2 layer - straw, manure and dry leaves;
  3rd layer - earth (2–3 cm).
2. Place similar blanks throughout the area that needs heating (1 pile per 10 m2).
3. In the earthen layer, make holes on the top and on the leeward side for a better exit of smoke.
4. Set fire to frost.
Such smoke piles are designed for 15 hours of smoldering, which is enough to survive one frosty night.
Creation of shelters. Retains heat by providing a physical barrier between plants and the environment. A variety of materials are suitable for creating shelters:
- polyethylene film and agrofibre;
- glass, including individual domes (jars);
- mulch (straw, crop residues, coniferous spruce branches, paper, cardboard, leaves, undecomposed compost);
- improvised devices (plastic bottles, boxes, containers, etc.).

Shelter of roses is held in late autumn

Important! If the weather allows, then in the daytime it is better to remove opaque shelters to open the plant access to sunlight.

When planting a rose in the autumn, it is important to accurately guess the time so that the seedling has time to take root in a new place, but does not begin to actively grow before the arrival of frost.

In this case, you will have to focus on the local climate. It must be taken into account that rooting takes, as a rule, about 1–1.5 months.

Due to the large spread in time, novice gardeners are still advised to leave it to winter in room (basement) conditions, and start planting next spring.

Preparing a site for planting seedlings

To choose the most suitable landing site, you need to focus on the individual needs of the varieties:

Light-loving ones are located in open elevated spaces.
Shade-loving ones can be planted near fences, trees and other voluminous shrubs. And also they are great for creating a hedge around the perimeter of the site.

Soil preparation before planting cuttings of roses is carried out in 2 stages:

For 1–3 months, dig the ground to a depth of about 55 cm. Add a mixture of sand, clay and compost (1:1:2) and loosen;
Immediately before planting, partially replace the soil in the place of constant growth with a fresh mixture consisting of turf, humus and sand (2: 1: 1).

Advice. It is recommended to pay attention to the original soil type. Loamy requires minimal preparation, while clay often has an increased level of acidity (pH< 5,5), который желательно нейтрализовать слабым раствором гашёной извести.

Planting a germinated cutting on a permanent flower bed

Instructions for transplanting a strengthened rose cutting to a garden plot:

Dig the appropriate number of holes at an acceptable (depending on the variety) distance from each other:
- undersized - from 30 to 40 cm;
- tall - from 50 to 60 cm;
- climbing - from 100 to 200 cm.
Carefully remove the cutting from the makeshift incubator, being careful not to damage the roots.
Lower the shoots into the prepared holes by 10–15 cm and cover them with a mixture of soil and compost on top.
To avoid rotting, pour the earth with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

If you plant roses too thick, it will lead to the development of diseases.

If the buds on the seedlings have only hatched a little, then they do not need to be covered. If the buds and leaves are already formed, then they should be covered from sunburn with Lutrasil or Spunbond.

It is better to plant seedlings in cloudy weather or late in the evening when the sun's rays are not so active.

When planting climbing or climbing roses decoratively, holes should be dug at a distance of about 18–20 cm from the supporting structure (trellis, fence, etc.).

A climbing rose along the fence will enliven the hedge

The seedlings themselves should be tilted towards the support. It should also be taken into account that if the decor object has a solid surface, then it is necessary to attach a lattice base to it at a distance of 7–9 cm from the wall in order to provide ventilation and access to the plant.

After transplanting future rose bushes to a permanent place, caring for them is no different from caring for other flowers. They need regular watering, fertilizing and loosening the soil.

Advice. In order for the young plant to get stronger, it is better not to let it bloom in the first 1–2 years after planting the cutting: for this, immature buds are plucked off at the very initial stage of formation.

Cuttings are rightfully considered one of the most popular ways of propagating roses. If you follow all the proposed rules, then the effectiveness reaches 80-90%. This is a very high indicator for the pink family.