Reproduction of roses by cuttings from a bouquet

Roses are one of the most popular varieties of plants that are grown both in the garden and at home. At the same time, many flower growers are engaged in their reproduction, using various methods for this, but not all of them know that bouquets can also be sources for obtaining planting material. The main features associated with this option for the propagation of roses will be discussed in detail in the proposed article.

Features and nuances of growing a cutting from a bouquet

Before embarking on such a reproduction of roses, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic rules and features of this process, all of which are discussed in more detail below:

In case of a desire to root the roses that are part of the presented bouquet, it is necessary to start this procedure without significant delay. The longer the bouquet is idle, the less chance there is for rooting cuttings.
Preliminary it is necessary to conduct an external inspection of all colors to choose the most suitable and suitable for germination planting material.
Cuttings taken from bouquets that were donated in winter or in any other cold period take root very poorly, it is virtually impossible to predict the chances of rooting. A much better survival rate for planting material obtained from summer bouquets.
Given the absence of any guarantees that the cutting will take root, it is necessary to prepare several shoots at once, which will greatly increase the chances of getting a rooted seedling.

What kind of rose can be cuttings

It must be borne in mind that not all flowers are suitable for cuttings, first of all, they must meet the following criteria:

The flower should be fresh and full of strength, with no signs of wilting. Otherwise, he actually has no chance of survival.
The stems of the plant should have a slightly woody structure., you can determine this by color: it should be brownish, not green.
The stem should have an average diameter, too thin or, conversely, thick cuttings root poorly.
Flowers grown in warmer climates, take root much worse, because they are not adapted to cold weather and other aggressive environmental influences.
There should be no traces on the selected plant any disease or insect activity.
Foliage and stems should look healthy and strong and also show no signs of yellowing.

Preparation of cuttings

After a suitable source has been selected for obtaining planting material, you can proceed to the process of preparing the cuttings.

The algorithm of actions is described in detail below:

For cuttings, it is necessary to use the middle part of the stem, it is cut into segments about 12-15 cm long. Each of them must have at least 2-3 buds.
The cut at the bottom of the stem is 1 cm below the location of the kidney, it must be done strictly at an angle of 45 °.
The cut in the upper part is made only at a right angle, it should be located 0.5 cm above the location of the kidney. Significant deviations in any direction are not allowed, as this will negatively affect the survival rate of the shoot.
Leaves located at the bottom must be completely removed., and those located in the middle and upper parts are shortened to a third of their sizes.
All thorns located on the stem are carefully trimmed with a sharp and clean instrument.
The cut located in the upper part must be burned with brilliant green or treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Such a measure will speed up the healing process of the wound and will have an antiseptic effect.
Harvested cuttings must be kept for 12 hours in a special root growth stimulator. If necessary, it can be replaced with fresh aloe juice.
After the described processing, the lower cut can be additionally sprinkled any growth stimulant in powder form.

Methods for rooting cuttings

in pots

Placing cuttings in pots filled with nutrient mixture is the most common rooting technique. This process is described in more detail below:

The selected pot is filled with a nutrient soil mixture, at the bottom of which a drainage layer is necessarily poured, for this you can use expanded clay.
There must be holes in the bottom surface to provide ventilation, oxygen supply and eliminate excess moisture.
The soil mixture is sprinkled with sand on top, the layer thickness should be no more than 3 cm. Sand must first be heat treated by keeping it in the oven or microwave. It is an ideal breeding ground for various microorganisms that pose a threat to most plants, but exposure to high temperatures allows them to be destroyed. Usually, after this, a long settling of sand is required in order to restore the natural microflora and re-emergence of disease bacteria, but in the case of cuttings taken from bouquets, there is no time for this process.
The degree of penetration of the cuttings into the ground is no more than 1.5-2 cm.
The soil is abundantly moistened, after which the container with the cuttings is covered with a cap, which can be obtained by cutting off the top with a neck from an ordinary plastic bottle.
A humid and warm microclimate is created inside, which will contribute to the rooting of planting material. If the soil dries out, it is necessary to quickly moisten it, but most often it is carried out naturally due to the accumulation of condensate.
It is necessary to monitor the condition of the cuttings and in the event of the appearance of buds, their immediate removal is required. If the rose begins to spend vital energy and nutrients on them, then it will not have the strength to root the shoots.

With the help of potatoes

Potato fruits can also be used to root cuttings of roses, this process is discussed in detail below:

A small trench breaks through the site, its depth should be about 15 cm. The most successful period for such manipulations is spring. It will also be necessary to make sure that the chosen place is reliably protected from cold winds and drafts, and at the same time receives a sufficient amount of solar heat and light.
Clean river sand is poured into the bottom of the trench, the layer thickness should be about 5 cm.
Cuttings that have undergone all the necessary preliminary preparation are stuck into potatoes. For these purposes, it is necessary to choose young tubers of medium size. Also, all eyes must be removed without fail.
Potatoes are placed in a dug trench, the distance between the tubers, if there are several, must be at least 15 cm.
After placing all the tubers in the trench, they will need to be sprinkled with garden soil by two-thirds.
Tubers with cuttings are covered with glass jars.
Planting material will be fueled by starch and carbohydrates contained in potatoes., besides, fresh tubers will provide a humid microclimate, and glass jars will help to preserve it.
After two weeks, the jars can be temporarily removed, accustoming the cuttings to street conditions. This should be done only if there is no risk of night frosts or established cold weather.
Cans can be removed after four weeks already on a permanent basis.

In the package

Another alternative is to root the planting material in a bag, detailed instructions are given below:

Cuttings are pre-prepared according to the standard scheme, which was described above.
The bag is filled with a purchased nutrient mixture for flowering plants or garden soil that has been pre-sterilized. Another substrate option is sphagnum moss, which is abundantly moistened with fresh aloe juice, diluted with water in proportions of 1:9.
The bag with the cuttings placed in it must be inflated with air, then securely tie and hang near the window opening.
Inside the bag there will be a very high level of humidity, which will ensure the formation of a characteristic fog. Full-fledged root shoots usually appear after a month, after which the cuttings will be ready for planting in the ground.

In water

Another way to root is to place the cuttings in a glass of water. This technique is very popular due to the simplicity of its technology, the sequence of actions is detailed below:

Planting material is placed in a glass pre-filled with clean water. It is allowed to place several cuttings at once in one container, but it is necessary to make sure that they do not touch each other.
So much water must be poured so that the shoots are completely immersed in it.
The glass is placed on a lighted place, for example, on the windowsill on the south side, additional covering from above is not required.
Moisture will gradually evaporate, so it will need to be periodically topped up.
After about 2-4 weeks, it will be possible to observe the formation of a specific influx in the area of \u200b\u200bthe lower sections. Gradually, a kind of roller will form from it, the size of which will be about 2-4 mm. This will indicate that the planting material is completely ready for transplanting into the ground, and the first roots will soon begin to grow from the influx.
After planting the cuttings, they can be covered on top with the same glass to provide the necessary microclimate. It is allowed to completely remove the glass in a month, by which time the resulting root processes will have become quite strong.

Planting seedlings

After rooting the planting material at home, it will be possible to transplant young rose seedlings into open ground.

A detailed description of this process is given below:

On the site, a place is selected that will meet all the criteria to provide the necessary conditions for roses.
Transplantation of seedlings in open ground can be carried out after the appearance of at least 2-3 well-formed leaves.
Planting holes are dug in the ground, their diameter and depth depend on the size of the root system of seedlings.
At the bottom of the hole, it is necessary to organize a layer 2-3 cm thick, which will consist of vegetable humus and pure sand, both components are pre-mixed in equal proportions.
When landing, it is necessary to ensure that the growth point is flush with the ground surface.
It is equally important to plant a seedling so so that the second kidney must be above the surface of the earth.
The hole, with a seedling placed in it, is filled with garden soil, which is then manually compacted and compacted.
The soil at the landing site is additionally moistened, after which the planting can be considered completed. From this point on, it remains only to provide the rose with appropriate care.

Further care of seedlings

The quality of subsequent care will depend on the growth, development and abundance of flowering roses. All the main actions that need to be performed are described in detail below:

Basic Mistakes

Below are the main mistakes that are made when cutting roses taken from bouquets. Familiarization with them will minimize the likelihood of their repetition in the future and increase the survival of seedlings:

Application of hard healing wounds during cuttings. This usually happens when using a poorly sharpened tool or tearing off the shoots with your hands. The knife must be not only sharp, but also clean, so as not to bring infection into the cut.
Taking cuttings from the top or bottom of the shoots. Such planting material does not take root or plants grow too weak from it, therefore the middle part of the stem is considered the most suitable for propagation.
Keeping thorns or too much foliage. This leads to the fact that the rose spends too much nutrients and energy on their preservation, which is why it cannot take root.

Summing up, we can give the following tips and advice for people who decide to use rose bouquets to propagate these plants:

It is best to use bouquets given in the summer for such purposes, since such roses have a much better chance of rooting and surviving. The probability of successful breeding is somewhat lower in spring and minimal in winter, but there are always chances.
Do not place the bouquet first in a vase, it is better to immediately proceed to the preparation of planting material, then the chances of a positive outcome will be higher.
It is not recommended to choose roses with the thickest stems for propagation. Many mistakenly believe that this has a positive effect on their survival, but such cuttings root very poorly.