Breeding and keeping rabbits: tips for beginners

Most owners buy rabbits for breeding from the market. This is a good thing, however, there is a risk of buying a sick or even a "half-dead" rabbit.

Rabbit in the photo
Rabbit in the photo

Before you go to the market and purchase rabbits, do not be too lazy to learn and read about how to choose a rabbit when buying. Knowing what healthy rabbits look like is a very important point in finding an answer to the question: “What should be done so that rabbits do not get sick?”

Before choosing a rabbit, ask the seller for a veterinary certificate (veterinary certificate). Such a document is a guarantee that the animals are healthy, so every trader should have a certificate. If it turns out that the seller does not have this document, pass by. It is dangerous to buy rabbits without a certificate - the animals may be sick.

To choose the right rabbit, carefully inspect it. On external examination, a healthy rabbit looks “beautiful”. He has a rounded back, his head does not twitch, does not “fall over” to one side.

Healthy rabbits have a cheerful, cheerful look. They are well-fed, their coat is smooth and shiny. The eyes of a healthy rabbit do not water, do not stick together. All visible mucous membranes of the animal are unchanged. Discharge from the nasal cavity, mouth, anus is not observed. Animals calmly react to their environment.

The ears should be clean inside and out and free from scabs and scratches.

The skin of the rabbit should not look inflamed, there should be no crusts or other lesions on it.

The fur around the anus is smooth, clean, not sticky.

In a healthy rabbit, the abdomen is soft on light palpation. This suggests that the animal has no problems with digestion.

The genital organs of rabbits are normal. There are no redness, no purulent discharge, tumors, etc.

The body temperature of a rabbit is normally 38.5-39.5 ° C.

A rabbit's elevated body temperature can be detected by its ears (they are hot to the touch). At elevated temperatures, the animal is lethargic, practically does not move, and has a sleepy appearance. However, it is possible to reliably determine the body temperature of a rabbit in the usual way - by introducing a thermometer into the rectum.

So, now you know how to choose a good rabbit, and after making a purchase, you need to safely deliver the animals home without harming them.

Rabbits are usually transported in wooden boxes with holes for ventilation. Box dimensions: length 50 cm, width 25-30 cm, height 35-40 cm.

When transported by car over a distance of 20-30 km, rabbits can be transported in the trunk. In this case, the following conditions must be observed: the number of rabbits should not exceed 6-8 heads and the trunk should not be completely closed.

When transporting rabbits over long distances (by train, plane), you must have a veterinary certificate with you, as well as a certain amount of feed (hay) and water.

One of the important conditions for the proper keeping and breeding of rabbits is the organization of quarantine for newly acquired individuals. What is quarantine? Quarantine is the temporary keeping of animals in isolated conditions.

Newly acquired rabbits must be kept in quarantine. This is a very important point in protecting animals from diseases. It is necessary to make sure that new individuals are healthy and will not cause diseases of the main herd.

How to keep rabbits in quarantine and how long should this adaptation period last? Keep rabbits in quarantine for 30-35 days. They are placed in a separate room and in separate cells. When servicing quarantine rabbits, their owner must have a separate dressing gown, boots, and equipment. Food fed to rabbits should be stored in a separate room. A disinfectant mat is installed at the entrance to the quarantine room.

In the process of keeping rabbits in quarantine cages, they need to be examined daily: take their temperature, check the nasal passages, mouth, genitals, and the condition of the skin. Ears are examined very carefully. If, during examination, various abrasions and wounds are found on the body of the rabbit, they are treated. Also determine the activity of animals, their appetite, the state of feces.

During this period, animals are accustomed to eating new feed.

For the successful keeping and breeding of rabbits during quarantine, it is very important to conduct a biochemical study of the blood of animals in order to further compose the diet, taking into account the testimony of laboratory examination.

The rabbit is a cute pet. In connection with the change of the owner and the former housing, he needs to adapt to a new life. Perhaps the rabbit is "offended" by the previous owner. Quarantine overexposure will calm the animal, and he will safely begin a new life.

If during the quarantine period the rabbits did not experience feeding failures, behavioral disorders and other undesirable signs, the animals are transferred to the main herd. Quarantine on this "closes".

The video "Breeding and keeping rabbits" clearly demonstrates what conditions should be created for animals in quarantine:

Knowing how to keep rabbits in quarantine, you must not forget that the further conditions created in the rabbitry are the key to their health. If you keep animals in good conditions, they will not get sick.

Indeed, rabbits get sick in unfavorable conditions for them. Do you want your rabbits not to get sick? Then try to keep the animals well.

The microclimate is a set of indicators of the air environment of the room: temperature, relative humidity, air velocity, the content of impurities of carbon dioxide, ammonia, hydrogen sulfide, microorganisms, etc.

The microclimate is a very important factor in the well-being of rabbits. The slightest deviation of the microclimate from normal values can adversely affect the health of rabbits.

The necessary microclimate conditions in which rabbits should be kept are presented in the table:

Observing the conditions for keeping rabbits, the humidity in the room must be monitored very strictly. The fact is that with an increase in humidity to 90-95%, the productivity of rabbits decreases and the likelihood of diseases with scabies, eczema, etc. increases.

The ratio of window area to floor area in a room where rabbits are bred is called the light coefficient. Its value should be 1:20 - 1:25.

As you can see in the photo, for proper maintenance when breeding rabbits, the windows in the rabbitry should transmit light well:

How to keep rabbits in cages

If there is not enough light in the room for keeping rabbits, then harmful microflora develops very quickly in it. In such conditions, the animals do not eat food well, they sit in cages ruffled. Their metabolic processes are disturbed, diseases begin.

Another tip for breeding rabbits is to make sure that as little dust as possible accumulates in the room where the rabbits live. To do this, you need to carefully set the feed, change the litter more often, etc. The maximum dust content in the air should not exceed 2-3 mg/m3. Dust has a detrimental effect on the respiratory organs of rabbits, and through them on the entire body, causing diseases. At the same time, rabbit down is also polluted.

Permissible standards for the content of gases in 1 m3 of rabbitry air: carbon dioxide - 0.2 mg, ammonia - 10 mg, hydrogen sulfide - 0.001%.

For the correct keeping of rabbits, the floor in the premises where animals are kept should, if possible, be hard-surfaced. The corners of the room are kept free so that various debris does not accumulate in them. Walls should be plastered.

In the room where rabbits live, feed should not be stored.

The photo "Breeding rabbits" shows the conditions under which these animals should be kept:

The main purpose of cages is to create comfortable conditions for the life of rabbits. If there are no such conditions, there is no point in keeping rabbits. Imagine that the animal was put in a cramped, holey cage with unsuitable feeders and drinkers (dangling, constantly falling out of the cage), etc. In such a cage, the rabbit cannot help but get sick.

Proper cages for rabbits can be four-sided, three-sided, round - in general, almost any shape. The main requirement is a good sanitary condition of the cell.

Cages are made of wood, metal, brick, or other material. They should be spacious and comfortable for rabbits.

The height of the cage from the floor to the bottom is 0.8-1.0 m. The floors in the cages are meshed (the size of the grid cell is 18x18mm). Everyday practice shows that the best material for the cage floor is wooden slats. They are much better than metal mesh. The optimal material for slats is oak, but it is not recommended to make them from pine or birch.

Under the slatted cage floor, a bunker tray can be made, preferably stainless steel. Thanks to the tray, it is convenient to free the cage from solid and liquid rabbit feces. In the middle of the bunker there should be a round hole, under which a bucket is placed.

When arranging cages for rabbits, exhaust pipes can be made in them.

As shown in the photo, as well as a manger for hay and greenery:

In rabbit cages, feeders and drinkers are strengthened on the front wall

Do not sprinkle any rabbit food on the floor of the cage, and do not place water bowls on the floor. All this leads to various animal diseases.

The optimal floor dimensions in cages for rabbits per head are presented in the table:

A beautiful home pleases rabbits and caresses the eyes of their owner.

The video "Cages for rabbits" presents the best specimens:

Rabbit care: how to clean the cage

Another important tip for keeping rabbits is to make sure you have a cleaning day. Imagine what will happen if there is no sanitary day in the room where the rabbits are kept. It is quite obvious that in such conditions the rabbits will get sick.

In animal husbandry, it is customary to hold a sanitary day on Thursday. Thursday is the day of cleaning the dirt of animals and the premises in which they are kept. Conducting a sanitary day helps to preserve the livestock of rabbits and obtain good products.

What do they do on cleaning day? On a sanitary day, the floors, walls and ceiling of the rabbitry, as well as working equipment, are treated with a 3% solution of soda ash. You can also use boiling water for this.

If there is no sprayer, disinfection can be done with an ordinary broom.

Before removing the rabbit cage, working equipment (scrapers, choppers, etc.) is usually processed in a bucket or other convenient container.

1-1.5 hours after the initial treatment, the premises are thoroughly cleaned: the ceiling and walls are washed with a brush, the cages and food storage areas are cleaned.

After cleaning the cages for rabbits, they make the necessary repairs to feeders, drinkers, cages. Slots and potholes in the ceiling or windows must be repaired. Metal mesh can be fired with a blowtorch with care.

After the sanitary day, all items that were used in the work are cleaned of dirt and disinfected.

It is also necessary to inspect rabbits daily to see if your pets are sick. If there are females that have hatched, you should inspect the rabbits in the nest and observe how the mother behaves. At this time, the rabbit (within 5-6 days after lambing) should be examined by the mammary glands.

High-quality sanitary day, as well as daily cleanliness activities are the key to the health of rabbits. Sanitary culture is a fundamental moment in the prevention of infectious diseases, and therefore the key to highly productive rabbit breeding.

The photo "Cleaning cages for breeding rabbits" shows how sanitary measures are carried out:

Rabbit Cage Cleaning
Rabbit Cage Cleaning

What can not be done when keeping rabbits?

When breeding rabbits, in no case should you:

deprive rabbits of water;
keep rabbits on a mesh floor for a long time. Otherwise, rabbits develop leg diseases;
feed rabbits grass cut after rain or morning dew. This can cause indigestion in animals.
carry out breeding and maintenance of rabbits in cramped cages.
feed rabbits one grain. This usually leads to obesity, dental disease, indigestion, etc.;
lay oak sawdust in the cage: they contain substances harmful to rabbits;
vaccinate sick rabbits;
feed rabbits spoiled feed;
to happen females with males with poor physique, low activity, physical defects, etc .;
to produce mating in the cage in which the female lives. It is better to do this in the "native apartment" of the male;
leave for reproduction of the following females: evading mating, remaining unfertilized after double mating, aborting, giving less than 5 heads of offspring, with low milk production. Such females should be culled;
buy rabbits in the market from sellers who do not have a veterinary certificate;
feed rabbits food waste that has been stored for more than 3-4 hours;
for a newly novice rabbit breeder to keep several breeds of rabbits. Only after some time and having gained the necessary experience, it is possible to breed various breeds;
produce inbreeding. This reduces fertility and impairs the health of rabbits;
to prevent rabbits in the cage in which the case was observed without proper cleaning and disinfection;
feed rabbits dusty food. Dust gets on the mucous membrane and swells. For this reason, the animal may suffocate;
allow dampness and draft in the room where rabbits live;
contain females who were selected for the tribe;
apply rabbit vaccines without having studied the instructions for their use;
equip feeders and drinkers inside the cages. They are installed only outside the cells;
feed purchased feed to rabbits without first examining them for nutritional value and quality;
overfeed rabbits with carbohydrate and protein feeds. From this, animals can become obese;
delay in providing assistance in case of poisoning. The sooner assistance is provided, the more effective the treatment of poisoning;
lay hay in a stack with a moisture content of more than 17%;
give medicine to the rabbit inside if he has no appetite;
think you know everything about rabbits. This is an erroneous opinion. It gives rise to the question "What to do so that the rabbits do not get sick?";
store in the room where rabbits live, food for them (grain, compound feed, etc.). In this case, rodents (mice, rats) will probably start in the room;
combine weaned rabbits with different live weight and different terms of weaning from the mother into one cage;
provide first aid to a sick rabbit if you do not have knowledge and experience: do more harm than help;
feed rabbits poultry compound feed of factory preparation. The fact is that this food contains gravel and crushed shells. This can cause digestive diseases in rabbits;
install cages with rabbits in direct sunlight in the summer. This can cause sunstroke in rabbits;
contain rabbits with signs of illness along with other, conditionally healthy, rabbits. Sick animals must be isolated;
purchase rabbits if a room, cages and, of course, food are not prepared for them;
introduce new feeds into the diet of rabbits in one day. These feeds are given gradually, over 4-6 days;
drastically change rabbit food. This is bad for animal health;
deprive rabbits of night feces. This is definitely bad for the health and development of rabbits.

The video "Breeding rabbits" will allow you to visualize in what conditions you need to keep animals and how to care for them: